"Will Luang Prabang be in our century of exact sciences,
of quick profits, of victory by money,
the refuge of the last dreamers, the last lovers, the last troubadours?"
- Marthe Bassene, 1909. 
Perhaps.
.
Bordered by the Khem Kong and Mekong, in beautifully restored temples and paved streets with lingering French influences, sleeps Luang Prabang. UNESCO World Heritage site since 1995.
Laos is a quiet country. Not a place to do things, but a place to be still. Reading, reflection. Thinking. Not thinking.
The country is waking, slowly but surely. Straggly back-packers from the Bangkok set have arrived, bringing with them the tourist dollar.
In a country where per capita income is less than USD 200 a year, one understands the necessity of it. But hopes for more cultural sensitivity.
The morning Tak Bat ceremony, where monks make their rounds and the faithful give food. Hordes of tourists trailing the monks and snapping photos have made this awkward for the locals. Correct procedure would be to observe from a respectful distance, and not raised above the monks... also no female contact.
We spent a day walking around the wats. Learnt that in much of Laos, education in the wats is provided for males, for free. Many travel from the countryside into towns, to spend 3-4 years in the temples, learning. They're happy for a chance to practice their English (or Japanese!) as well. This guy is 24, has been in Wat Mai for 3.5 years. He hopes to have a chance to travel in future. Note his erased tattoo (and no.. he chatted with me first, I did not chat him up 0=)).
Sometimes, we'd walk to the market for breakfast as well, which was where we chanced upon this little chap, looking a trifle bored at his mother's stall.
Another little chap aged about 2 approached us with the most innocent air... then tried to filch our dough fritters. As we tried to protect our breakfast, his mama come up running with a scream, to cart him away before we could take a photo. He did get a little piece of fritter for his efforts though.
Phousi is a hill with murderous steps, and a wat at the top. Also a little cave temple, where an eerie figure of wax (or perhaps he was someone who was in living meditation... either way, we didn't dare approach) sat amid incense and gilt offering trees.
Sunset from Phousi:
As the afternoons were hot, we sometimes escaped to JoMa's cafe, a nice little eatery serving pastries, pasta and cool drinks. Owned by expatriates, but run by locals, it is perhaps a sustainable alternative where the country opens up, but still retains its charm. Also, it is the only place in Luang Prabang with air-conditioning (outside the expensive hotels). Yes, I'm getting too old for this! =D
Our room, Sillichith Guesthouse. Somehow, we've a habit of making our accommodation look really bad. *lol* Was told our photo resembled a red light district. But in fact, it is a clean, family-run guesthouse with a curfew pasted prominently on the front door, "Please come back before 11.30pm. Anyone outside later, please take care by yourself."
Tat Kuang Si falls, a short distance from town:
And finally. The drink which separates the men from the boys... Whiskey, Lao style (additional ingredients optional). 50% proof, it goes down like a clean sake... and all of a sudden, you feel warm.
